Keeping ferrets cool

In Britain we're having a heatwave at the moment, which has brought me on, naturally, to talk about ways to keep your ferrets cool. Ferrets can overheat very quickly, and can become very ill in a matter of hours. Indoor ferrets should stay indoors in a cool place away from direct sunlight. It may be best for outdoor ferrets to come in  also if possible. A fan or air conditioning unit can be used, just make sure it's not blowing directly at the cage. I would also keep the fan away from their reach, being the curious little animals they are they're bound to get hurt somehow. I have windows open too to try and encourage some air flow, but please make sure that your ferrets can't reach them otherwise you could have some escapes/falls on your hands!

Please don't put anything frozen in with your ferrets without a suitable cover on. You can use frozen water bottles (like hot water bottles) and put them back in the cover or some people will say to freeze a bottle of water and wrap it in a towel. The only problem I have with this is that it won't stay in the towel for long! My ferrets can remove something like this in about 10 seconds or less! If you're going to do this then please find a cover that they won't be able to tear off straight away.

You can buy a Granite cool slab, normally designed and on sale for chinchillas, they provide a cool area to lay. If you want a larger piece then a DIY store or kitchen workshop that provide a cutting service may be able to provide you with a suitable sized piece of granite or marble. You will be better off asking for any scraps they have to buy, otherwise you may be asked to buy a full (usually around 2m) length piece, which would be very costly!
Another thing you could do if your ferrets don't detest it, is to spray them gently with a light mist of water periodically, using a spray bottle to encourage cooling via the skin. Hopefully I don't need to say this but please don't spray your ferrets in the face, if they didn't like being sprayed before they certainly won't like it after!
Something that I like to do is put a small amount of water in the bottom of a shallow tub and let them drink and paddle to cool off. My boys hate it, and jump out straight away if you try and put them in there! Our newest addition Lola however is a water baby! I saw how she loved to jump in and out of her splashy tub so I bought some plastic play balls (the ones meant for ball pits) that float. She has great fun trying to catch the balls as they bob in the water.
Some ferret owners place ice cubes in the water bowl or just provide them to play with. Ferrets don't really like to drink very cold water, so this may actually stop them from drinking as much as they would normally. Aside from that I'm not too keen on letting them have ice cubes as they can cause serious problems if chewed and swallowed due to the drastic temperature change.
It may be tempting to take your ferrets to the beach on a hot day, or out for a walk, but this can be disastrous! If you want to take them outside to enjoy the weather then  please do it at dusk, if the temperature has cooled suitably. They really won't enjoy being dragged around in the heat, and will more than likely become very ill.
Coincidentally, if your ferret does overheat (limp, red nose and paw pads, panting, mucous) then you must not bring their temperature down too quickly, as this can actually make matters worse. You should try and get some water into them with a bottle or syringe, but make sure that they are actually swallowing, you don't want water to end up in their lungs! You can wrap them in a damp cloth, or wipe them over with one. If there are two people present then it would probably be wise to have one calling a vet and to drive there while the other person attends to the poorly ferret.

Just remember, you can have fun in the sun, but please leave your ferrets at home!

Bathing your ferrets.

Bathing ferrets is sometimes necessary but is often over practised by owners. Owners of particularly smelly ferrets may think that by bathing their ferret regularly they can eliminate any odours. All that this normally does is make the problem worse as bathing tends to dry out the skin and coat, leading to the ferret producing more oils to compensate. If your ferret hasn't been neutered then that will likely be the cause of most of the smell.
Unless your ferret rolls/steps in something unpleasant then it shouldn't really be necessary to bath your ferret more than twice a year. Some people do say that every couple of months is fine, but personally I think this is far too frequent.
You need to have a gentle shampoo, one designed specifically for ferrets if possible. I'm currently using 'Beaphar squeaky clean Rodi shampoo' suitable for small animals including guinea pigs, hamsters (personally I've never bathed any of my hamsters but there you go) rabbits and ferrets. You will also need a suitable object to bath them in such as a sink or bathtub. Personally I wouldn't use the sink as they are very skilled climbers, mine can climb out of the bathtub so can certainly climb out of a sink! Obviously sinks are fairly high, which would create a fall hazard. I bath mine in the tub, with a couple of inches of warm water in the bottom. If you have a non slip mat then that would help the ferret feel safer and reduce the risk of accidents.
If you are bathing your ferret(s) for the first time then I would try to make it as fun as possible with toys, perhaps buy a waterproof toy just for bath time?  It's handy to place something in there for your ferrets to stand on if they want to come out of the water at any point, I use a large Tupperware container. Adding some kind of weight to the container will make for a more stable 'raft'.
Particularly if you have a longer coated ferret such as an angora you will be best to gently brush your ferret before the bath using a brush designed for small animals (soft bristle brushes are best, please don't use slicker  brushes as these are best for dogs and can cause injury if used improperly) as any knots that are in the coat will tighten on contact with water (just the same as our hair) and be even harder to remove after the bath! This is a valuable piece of information I've learnt from my time working as a dog groomer.
To start, place the ferret (I would do this one ferret at a time) in the bath, and give it a couple of minutes to check everything out. I would then start to gently scoop water onto its back. For my two older boys I use the shower head to wet them and to rinse as it is far quicker, but this can be a scary experience so you may need to build up to this gradually. My boys enjoy sticking their heads underneath the spray before running off, then returning to do the same again a few minutes later!
Whether you are scooping water onto them or using a shower hose I would start at the back, the same as you would with a dog. This is far less stressful than if you were to start at the head, your ferret wouldn't know what was going on! Starting from the back gives them time to gradually get used to the feeling and the sounds.
 Once your ferret's coat is completely saturated you can then work a small amount of shampoo into a lather on their coat. With ferrets I don't tend to wash the head as such. I may dampen it with water but I certainly don't shampoo it. Their heads are far too small I believe to bath without getting soap in their eyes, ears and mouth, so usually only shampoo up to the neck. Aside from the worry about the shampoo, having water splashed in your face cannot be a terribly nice experience! Gentle baby wipes are useful for wiping over a mucky face.
Once your ferret has been lathered up you can rinse it off. This is the most important part of the bath, you need to remove all that soap to prevent irritation and even skin problems that may occur if left in. It may be helpful to do a water change or two so that you can easily see when the bubbles stop appearing in the rinse water and when the water starts to run clear. Another way to check if the coat has been rinsed thoroughly is if it 'squeaks' when you run your hand down it. If you're unsure as to what I mean run your hands over your rinsed hair the next time you wash it, it should sound squeaky, which is normally an indication that all the soap has been removed.
Have plenty of towels ready as your ferret will try to roll in/on anything available to dry off! I've had them try to climb up my trouser leg to dry off before! Try to bath your ferret on a warm day/when you have the heating on to prevent it getting a chill. If you have outdoor ferrets then I wouldn't suggest putting them back until they have dried off thoroughly, which doesn't take too long.
Hopefully I've provided you with enough information, of course if you do have any questions then please feel free to comment below and I will try to answer them for you!

Neutering your ferrets.

Most ferret owners choose to neuter their ferrets. Neutering is mainly undertaken to prevent breeding, but it is also done for other reasons. Females once in season need to be taken out of season. This is because they are induced ovulators, meaning they only ovulate through coitus. If they are not taken out of heat they will eventually get aplastic anaemia caused by high oestrogen levels. This can be done artificially by jill jab or implant, naturally by breeding (not generally advised) or she can be serviced by a vasectomised male. Using a vasectomised male can lead to phantom pregnancies and the spread of diseases.
Males will have a strong odour if kept intact and can have behaviour problems such as aggressiveness. Once neutered the smell reduces, they often become more sociable and playful. There has also been an increase in coat condition in castrated males.
There has been a link between neutering and a reduced risk of developing tumours in the reproductive organs.
Lets have a little look at the different methods that can be used to neuter ferrets.

• The jill jab. This is a hormonal injection that is used to either prevent or stop a season. They are designed to last the entire breeding season but it has been known for owners to have to repeat the jabs in the same year as jills can come back into season if the jab 'wears off'. Jill jabs need to be given every year to prevent a jill coming into season. 
• The implant. The implant works in much the same way as an injection, it prevents the female ferret from coming into season and becoming pregnant. The implant can last up to 18 months although as with the jill jab the effects can wear off sooner. The implant is not yet widely used, so a chat with your trusted exotic vet would be the best course of action.
• Spay. The spay can be done from around 6 months of age, there is much debate as to whether or not the ferret should have a first season before spaying. A conversation with your vet should help you decide when to spay. To spay is to do a complete ovariohysterectomy, the entire reproductive system is removed, the ovaries and the uterus. The jill is put under general anaesthetic and will have pain relief administered. She will have been starved at least 4 hours before the operation to avoid complications. The area will be clipped and disinfected before entering theatre. The vet makes an incision just below the umbilicus (belly button) heading towards the tail. The ovaries are removed with the uterus and any connecting blood vessels are ligated. She is then stitched up using nylon or absorbable sutures. She can often come home on the same day. She is likely to be groggy and will need plenty of rest in a quiet environment. They can take anything from one to two weeks to heal and you should look out for any signs of redness, swelling, soreness or discharge from the wound. If in doubt the vet will need to be contacted.
• Castrate. Castrating males is an irreversible procedure that will render the male unable to reproduce for the rest of his life. Males can be castrated once they have fully developed their testicles, which is usually from around the age of 8 months, although this can change depending on if they are indoor or outdoor ferrets. My ferrets are kept indoors and we had them castrated relatively early at 8 months old as they were fully mature and had started to show some unwanted behaviours. This is not unheard of as often the warmer environment can trick them into thinking it's spring time. Your vet will be able to confirm whether or not your male is ready by performing an examination of the testes. The ferret will need to be starved for four hours before surgery, not overnight as some inexperienced (ferret wise) vets will tell you! This is because ferrets digest food very quickly and need to eat around every four hours. An overnight starve will not do your ferret any good whatsoever. The hob will go under general anaesthetic and will receive pain relief. The fur around the scrotum is clipped and the area disinfected. A small cut is made to allow the spermatic cord and blood vessels to be ligated. Both testicles are removed and the vet can then close the opening. The ferrets are usually allowed home the same day as the castrate is a fairly simple procedure. As well as for a female spay, they will be groggy so a clean comfortable bed should be provided. Over the next few days you should check to make sure the site is healing well and there is no redness or discharge. If you have any concerns then a phone call to the vet is needed.
• Vasectomy. The male will need to be fully mature before the vasectomy can be carried out. The vasectomy is really only carried out so that the male can be used to bring jills out of season. There are no other real advantages of vasectomising your hob. This is because they will still act like a whole male, which is important for them to be able to 'mate' with the female. He will still carry his pungent smell, be aggressive to males and overly interested in jills. The male will be put under a general anaesthetic as before. The vasectomy involves the cutting and tying of the vas deferens, which is the tube from the testicles. The testicles are left intact so that he will maintain his sexual drive. The surgical site will need to be assessed as before to ensure he is healing properly. He can remain fertile for anything up to 6 weeks, so shouldn't be introduced to any receptive females until that time has elapsed. Otherwise a litter of kits may still be born.
• Implant for males. This is not widely used at the moment but works in the same way as the implant or jill jab in females. It does wear off and would need to be redone about once a year. There have been links between late neutering and a reduced risk of adrenal disease, the implant can be used for a time before castrating if this is something that you are concerned about. Our vet offered this service to us, but we decided to carry on with our original decision and have them castrated.

Finding a good vet that is knowledgeable in dealing with ferrets is essential . Once you have all the information about a procedure from a reputable source it's a good idea to 'test' potential vets by asking questions that you already know the right answers to, such as 'do I starve my ferret overnight before the operation?' which is a question I used. They should see a fair number of ferrets on a regular basis and be confident in performing these operations. Do not always go for the nearest option as they may not be the best vet for your fuzzy. We travel 45 minutes each way to see our vet, but I have peace of mind that they are in safe hands. You need to be sure that you are doing right by your ferret before you commit and have them neutered, but generally spaying and castrating are seen as the best ways to neuter. But be warned, they are irreversible.

Bringing your ferrets outside.

Regardless if you house your ferrets inside or out, they will need time out from their cage to exercise. This can be done within the home but during nice weather why not let your ferrets outside? But before you grab your fuzzies and rush on outside, read on to make sure that you are prepared for introducing them to the big wide world.
Unless you have properly ferret proofed your garden (I will discuss this in a minute) then you will definitely need a harness and lead set. I would get one anyway as they are useful for going on walks near home and at shows. With a lead you can safely let your ferret get some fresh air and exercise without having to worry about them running off. I find that my boys do not walk on the lead as a dog would, as in they don't follow you and it's better to pick them up to move them rather than try to lead them. For more information on harnesses please try my post by following this link http://ferretdook.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/boys-talk-harnesses.html
If you have indoor ferrets and you want to take them outside in colder weather then you will need to gradually acclimatise them to it. One way you could do this would be to take them to a colder room for a few minutes at a time, then let them sniff the air outside and spend a couple of minutes out there, and gradually increase the amount of time they spend outside. It's a good idea not to let your ferrets outside in extreme temperatures at all, and if you do then only for a short amount of time as ferrets can suffer from heatstroke and hypothermia.  
You will need to ferret proof your garden before you let them play outside. A basic ferret proof check-list could contain the following:

• Properly enclosed garden, with no gaps that the ferret can escape through.
• Ponds, pools and water features are fenced off.
• Garden chemicals and tools are put away.
• Dangerous/broken objects are removed (such as broken glass or nails)
• Natural dangers are removed or fenced off (such as rose thorns, nettles and poisonous plants)
• Gardens with vertical drops (normally as a feature) have fencing/barrier to prevent ferrets falling.
• Non ferret areas (such as veg plot/ornamental garden) are sectioned off, ferrets love to dig.
• Pets kept in the garden (such as chickens, rabbits and guinea pigs) are secure and out of the way of the ferrets
•  Climbable objects are out of reach.
• There are no gaps under or behind objects such as sheds/compost bins where ferrets can hide.

The list of possible hazards will vary from garden to garden, so take a look around yours and try to think like a ferret and look for dangers!

Don't forget to bring your ferrets in when they have had enough, you can either set a specific length for the play time or you can sometimes tell when they are ready to come inside as they may go to the gate/door, try and climb your leg or look up at you or simply stop playing and stand around.

So now you can safely take your ferret outside with you, he'll love you for it!

Indoor cages, travel cages and show cages.

Most ferret owners will have at least two or three different types of cage for use in various situations. Here are the most common types that I have found.

• The home. The most obvious type of cage is the one that the ferrets will spend the most time in, their cage at home.  There are many different types of cage on the market, and you will need to select the most appropriate to suit your ferrets needs. If you have a single or a pair of ferrets then they will obviously not need as much space as a group of ferrets, but I would still try to buy as large a cage as your budget will allow. This will enable your ferrets to exercise in the cage, have plenty of space to themselves if they want some alone time and it will also give you more freedom when planning the layout of the cage. In a larger, multi-level cage you will be able to move toys and bedding around to keep the environment fun and stimulating for your little friends. It is also better for your ferrets as you can keep toilet, food and sleeping areas completely separate.  For the positioning of cages/hutches please see my post on general ferret care  http://ferretdook.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/want-ferret-read-this.html If you have elderly ferrets, or ferrets that find getting around difficult or painful, then a multi-level cage may not be for you, as your poor fuzzy will have to constantly drag itself up and down the stairs to use the bathroom/eat/drink etc. You may have more creative freedom if you decide to keep your ferrets outdoors, as you can design and build large runs and 'sheds' for them. You will however need to ensure that they are well maintained and escape proof, as well as protected from the elements and damp, which can be a major problem for ferrets. This may also be a risky business if you live in an area where animals such as foxes roam, as they have been known to attack ferrets left in cages overnight. Please try to avoid cages with barred floors as they cause foot problems, and are quite frankly uncomfortable for your ferret to walk on. You can of course cover barred flooring with carpet or linoleum for example. Another point to consider when choosing a cage would be the ease of use for yourself. Does it have areas that would be hard to clean? Try to picture yourself using it before you buy.
• The travel cage/carrier. Travel cages and carriers are normally small handheld cages that will hold either one or two average sized ferrets. They can be made of plastic, fabric or have wire mesh. These cages are usually for short term use such as a trip to the vets or to separate individual ferrets as a 'time out'. I see them as a very short term option as most do not allow water bottles to be attached and do not have the space for food bowls. There is also the problem that if your ferret needs to use the toilet it will have very little chance of avoiding standing in its own mess in the confined space. I avoid having my ferrets in a cage like this for longer than an hour, they can fall asleep after a while, but don't forget that they will need to use the toilet within 15 minutes of waking! Try to find a cage that you find easy to use, ours at the moment have a ridiculous lid that is almost impossible to close when you have a ferret pushing it from the inside! But please be aware that ferrets are problem solvers, and it's not uncommon for ferrets to find a way out of the most secure looking carriers! 
• The show cage. I have called these show cages as they are most commonly used by people taking their ferrets to shows or gatherings. They are often sold as rabbit cages and most have a plastic tray with a wire mesh top half. These cages will allow space for bedding, toys, food and water and will allow your ferret to relieve itself. The cage that I use for this purpose (and for long car rides) at the moment is an extra large version and it is a struggle to fit it in the car! You should look for one that will comfortably fit the desired amount of ferrets inside and that you will be able to easily move and handle. You may need to practice putting it in and removing it from your vehicle to find the easiest way as it can be a delicate job. Also be aware as to where the cage doors are, as you will need to be able to easily remove your ferrets in the event of an emergency. Always load the cage before putting your ferrets inside, it may seem obvious but you never know... Lastly remember to make sure the cage is secure and will not move during transport, that there are no draughts blowing directly at the cage, that music blaring from the radio can cause stress for your ferrets and to never leave your ferrets in a hot car. 
• The playpen. This is much like a child's playpen or those designed for dogs. Please do not try and use ones that are designed for rodents as they are neither strong enough or tall enough! (If my hamster could escape from one then a ferret definitely will!) These are used when introducing new ferrets, or simply as a safe place for your ferrets to exercise out of the cage. They are usually made from metal, but the bar design is easy for ferrets to climb, and I have seen people line them with wood or perspex to prevent this. Don't forget to provide your pet with a comfy bed to sleep on if he gets too tired as well as food, water, toys and a litter tray if used. Remember to supervise you ferrets while they are inside the playpen. 

I hope this has been helpful, if you have heard of another type of carrier/cage for ferrets that I haven't covered please do leave a comment and I will look into it for you. Obviously I cannot cover every single type of cage on the market, but hopefully this has given you an idea what you may need as a ferret owner. If you are a member of a ferret group, either online or otherwise, you will be able to ask experienced owners on the best (and worst) cages available.

What you will need before you buy your ferrets.

It can be tempting to just rush straight out and buy the fuzzies first. However it is very important that you have their new home all set up ready for their arrival. Below I have compiled a list of things that you should have before you go and pick your ferts up.

• Cage/hutch This is the most important thing to have set up as your ferrets will need to go straight in here when they get home and spend around a day in without coming out to enable them to settle in. It should be of an appropriate size for the number of ferrets you are getting, the bigger the better really as in this case size really does matter! If it is a tall cage then I would suggest the careful placement of several hammocks to break the fall of any free-falling fuzzy. Wire ladders and ledges are a terrible design, not only are they uncomfortable for your pet to walk on they can cause foot problems such as bumble foot.  If you do get a cage with wired parts then you can either buy or make covers from various materials. Also try to find a cage that you will find easy to maintain. The best thing to do would probably be to ask around on ferret sites or forums, the well seasoned ferret owners will tell you what cages are fab and what to stay away from!
• Bowls/water bottles Your ferrets will need decent size bowls for food and/or water if you choose. My ferrets used to drink from water bottles, but since I put water down in a bowl for their out of cage play they refuse to drink from the bottles any more! Bottles are recommended as ferrets love to tip bowls over and mine like to splash and 'dig' the water! Aside from getting water everywhere this could be quite dangerous if you leave your ferrets on a warm day and they have tipped all of the water from their bowl. I have bottles on the side of the cage as insurance. the food/water bowls need to be heavy and non tip. I favour the large ceramic bowls as mine cannot tip them, but there are non-tip bowls on the market.
• Travel cage You will need a travel cage, or several depending on the size, to transport your ferrets home on the first day. They will also be necessary for trips to the vet and for transportation for shows. Please pick the largest you can find as if they need to relieve themselves it will be unpleasant for them to have to stand/sit virtually on top of it. Try to find cages that allow a bottle to be attached to the side for long journeys.
• Ferret grooming To keep your pets looking their best you will need a brush (I favour the bristle type rather than the wire slicker type, the last thing you want is a ferret clamping down on sharp wire), toothpaste and a toothbrush (do not use human toothpaste, use a meaty/malt toothpaste formulated for pets along with small finger caps/brushes to gently remove tartar), nail clippers (you can buy special small animal claw clippers or just use small cosmetic clippers), ferret shampoo, and ear cleaner or gentle baby wipes to clean excess wax from their ears, do not poke around inside the ear as you can cause damage such as perforated ear drums. I use baby wipes as although I have heard of using cotton buds I think that this could be a bit risky as if the ferret suddenly jerks his head around it could cause the bud to enter the ear canal. I just worry too much!
• Bedding, floor covering and litter You will need somewhere cosy for your ferrets to cuddle up. This can be provided by hammocks, hanging tents, sleep sacks, purpose made beds or if the cage has an enclosed section as a sleeping area you could line it with fleecy blankets or old fleece sweaters. You will need a suitable substrate for the cage floor. Different people use different things. I use a paper based material which is basically tea bag paper-a by product from the food industry, it is super absorbent and soft to walk on/nestle in. Other people use straw but this could be quite dusty and cause respiratory problems. I know some people do use sawdust and wood shavings but personally I stay well clear of these as they are known to cause respiratory problems. Other things that I have heard of people using are offcuts of carpet or linoleum to line the floor that can be replaced as necessary. Shredded paper is a fantastic substrate, it soaks up any mess, is cheap and relatively easy to obtain, just don't use newspaper and make sure any staples have been removed prior to shredding. You will need something to line litter trays with, it is often a good idea to have a separate material to the rest of the cage as the ferrets can then identify this as their toilet area. There are litters that have been created especially for ferrets but most paper based cat litter is suitable, just stay away from clay based litter, it can be very dusty and also the clay can be spread very quickly across your floor!
• Litter tray accessories You will need either a poop scoop to regularly clean up mess from the litter tray or poop bags. You could use doggy bags or nappy bags, these are what I use and the price varies greatly from place to place. You can pick them up quite cheaply at markets, something like £1 for 200 but I now get mine from my local supermarket which is saving me a fortune! I pay around 13p for 100 value nappy sacks, you can't argue with the price and they get the job done.
• Food and treats You will need to have food and treats ready. Treats can be high in sugar so I use them sparingly, usually as a way to get the ferrets to do what I want. Ferretone is an oil based vitamin supplement that ferrets adore! It can be used to socialise ferrets and introduce new ferrets into an existing group, to teach your ferret tricks or trickled on their belly to enable you to perform health checks and clip nails. There are many different diets you can offer your ferret, I will go into more detail in a future post but here I will outline the main diets and what you should look out for. Kibble diets are a complete dried diet. They can be expensive but it is well worth paying a little extra to know your fuzzy is getting the best it can get. Cat food is no longer recommended so please do try to find a good ferret food. I quite like the James Wellbeloved ferret food and the Supreme science selective ferret food. Their prices differ slightly but as far as I can tell the nutritional analysis and ingredient lists are more or less the same. You need a food that is high protein between 35 and 40%. It should have quite a high fat content , around 20% or more and a very small amount of fibre, ideally less than 2%. Good quality meat should be listed rather than meat by products. Also check that the protein is not coming from things like vegetables as ferrets are obligate carnivores and need meat based protein. Also ensure that the food is low in sugar. If you want to compare food then use the nutritional analysis along with the list of ingredients. The ingredients list will have the highest amounts first and the least last, for example my food has poultry meal at the top at 43% and linseed is near the bottom with only 2%. You can also feed your ferrets with an all meat diet that can be given raw or cooked. Raw meat such as chicken can be given on the bone, this provides your ferret with calcium and helps to keep their teeth tartar free. Do not give cooked meat on the bone as once the bones have been cooked they are extremely brittle and can cause a serious injury to your pet. I have been told to stay away from pork products and I supplement my ferrets kibble diet with pieces of rabbit, turkey, chicken and beef, I am going to try them on heart and liver soon too. My ferrets seem to prefer cooked meat, they will eat this straight away whereas they will stash raw meat and it often has to be removed before it goes bad. If feeding cooked meats ensure that you have not used seasoning and it isn't something from your plate that's been smothered in veg, sauces and the like. It would be an idea to find a 'duck soup' recipe that works for you. Duck soup often contains no duck at all and is mainly used to help poorly ferrets get nutrition, although some feed it as a treat. Ferrets often do not see soup as a food at first but it's a good idea to persevere as your ferret may need to eat the nutritious soup if they become ill. Also some ferret owners make a gravy or use natural meat juices to pour over kibble. 
• Harness and lead set This is essential for taking your ferret out and about on walks or to shows. There are many different types out there, you simply need to find the right design for you and your pets.
• Cage cleaner I use a cage cleaner that is formulated for use in small animal cages and hutches. Most are antibacterial disinfectants that kill germs whilst cleaning the cage. I would try not to get an overly fragranced cleaner as this could affect your ferret. The ferrets will need to be away from the cage when you clean, the cage should be thoroughly dried before they go back in and it should never be used on your ferrets.
• Toys Ferrets love toys! Mine seem to prefer the packaging that the toy came in than the toy itself, and this is why I think it is often better to provide home-made toys. You can buy chasers and cat teasers, wind up wheelie toys, squeaky and chewy toys, cat scratcher homes, play tunnels and balls but I've found that my ferrets favourite toys are cardboard boxes, bubble wrap and plastic bags! Obviously you will need to supervise them with things that they could tear and swallow or become trapped in and suffocate. All toys should be checked regularly for wear and tear. I would also recommend that you do not put plastic bags and bubble wrap etc in their cage for safety reasons, mine only play with them when they are outside the cage and I can supervise them.

I hope my little list will help you be prepared for the new arrivals, but there are also a couple of other points to consider before getting the ferrets. If they will be running free around the house at any point in time then all the rooms that they have access to will need to be ferret proofed, holes and gaps need to be blocked, dangerous objects removed and all climbable objects need to be considered. It is also a good idea to have a list of potential vets to speak to. You will need to ask them things like 'how many ferrets do you treat a week?' and 'do you have any vets that specialise in exotics?' It is not always the expensive vets that are the best but I certainly wouldn't always go for the cheapest. I use a vet that specialises in exotics, it is a 45 minute drive each way for me but I have peace of mind that they are in safe hands.
For some excellent ferret toys try http://ferretcouture.com/shop/toys.asp. For cages you could try http://www.justcages.co.uk/ferret-cages or http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ferret+cage&x=10&y=18. For ferret 'soup' recipes type 'duck soup for ferrets' in google or a similar search engine. There are so many recipes out there, they are all really just slight variations of each other. Don't forget to contact a ferret club or forum as they will have lots of hints and tips as well as recipe ideas!

Want a ferret? Read this.

There are a few basics to learn before taking on ferrets. I'm not writing this to put anyone off, ferrets make wonderful pets. It's just that so many people impulse buy without doing any prior research into the animal and then surrender their pets to a shelter, or worse, let them loose into the wild to almost certain death.
Ferrets are not a short term commitment like a hamster for instance. They can live for anything between 6 and 9 years, sometimes even longer than that.
Ferrets need daily human companionship with at least two hours out of their cage for play every day. The beauty about having ferrets is that if you are at work they will be safely tucked away in their cage, probably sleeping, and can then come out to play when you get home.
It isn't really a good idea to buy a single ferret unless you are at home most of the time and can devote a huge amount of time to keep the little one company. Ferrets really do need to live in pairs or groups, they can entertain each other when you cannot and keep each other company. Having two ferrets instead of one doesn't make much of a difference to the amount of time you give them or cash that you need to spend. It is likely that you will already have a large cage and toys, there will just be one more mouth to feed. The only downside to having a pair of ferrets is that they can become so closely bonded that if one passes away, the other can often follow close after due to grief.
Ferrets need to be fed rather as a working dog would, with a constant supply of food, particularly if feeding dry kibble. They have incredibly fast metabolisms and need to eat every four hours or so, and all that food has to come out the other end too!
As I mentioned when I spoke about lifespan ferrets are not the same as a small rodent in terms of care, which is a common misconception. They will require trips to the vet for yearly check ups and vaccinations and they need to be neutered . So before you go crazy and get say 4 or 5 ferrets you need to consider whether you will be able to afford to care for them all! There has to be nothing sadder than an elderly, sick ferret being given up for re homing as the owner has decided they can no longer see to it's needs.
One thing to consider is where you are going to place the cage (if indoors) or hutch (if outdoors). With an indoor placement you need to keep the cage out of direct sunlight, away from draughts, not directly near a heater or radiator and far enough away from the TV/radio so that they will not be frightened of any loud noises and can sleep peacefully. If they will live outdoors then you will need to study the garden at various times during the day to discover the shadiest spots (it's no use if the area is shaded in the morning but then in full sun at midday when the sun is highest!) Ferrets cannot handle heat well and can die very quickly from heat exhaustion. The hutch/enclosure used will need to offer protection from the elements, preferably with an enclosed sleeping area for warmth during the winter. Placement near a fence or wall would be ideal to protect from harsh winds blowing through their home. Ferrets do not deal very well with damp conditions either.
If you feel that you can meet these requirements then definitely consider getting ferrets, they offer years of love, fun and companionship with a hint of cheekiness! Also if you ensure that you meet all their needs then you can have a happier, healthier pet and avoid heartache in the long run. For information on your local ferret rescues then please contact your local area's ferret club. For more information on what to expect before you commit then you could try http://www.all-about-ferrets.com/ferret-as-a-pet.html.

Fun and games.

Ferrets love to play. Hard. When you play with your ferret don't expect to be able to keep up with him! Ferrets have a huge amount of energy and can play for hours!
My ferrets enjoy being chased and chasing in return, with a healthy amount of tussles in between. When ferrets play together it can look quite rough, but remember that if a ferret was in distress he would show it.
Ferrets need human companionship every day, not only for your continued bonding but also for their mental health. There are many games that you can play with your fuzzy, but each individual will have their own preferences of what games they enjoy, just as we have different hobbies.
You can chase them around the house and encourage them to chase you. My ferrets love doing this when I don't initiate it, I guess it's more fun when you know you're being cheeky!
Some ferrets also enjoy playing with cat teasers. You can dangle it in the air in front of them and watch as they leap and twist trying to catch it. It can also be dragged along the ground ahead of them for them to chase.  Be careful with toys such as this as they often contain small parts, such as rattle beads inside and feathers glued to the exterior, which can pose a choking hazard, or cause intestinal blockage if swallowed. Towels can also be used in the same manner.
My boys love a shallow tray of water to drink from and paddle in. Shiro actually enjoys digging in the water, so a towel, or several is always a good thing to have on hand. It's adorable when they are both drinking as sometimes they will half lick, half play bite at each others wet noses.
Plastic or paper bags provide fun hidey holes, they love making the plastic bags rustle and mine in particular get a kick out of pouncing on whoever is in the bag . Never leave your ferret unattended with bags, they could  rip them, try to chew on them or even become trapped and suffocate.
Cardboard boxes of all shapes and sizes are great fun for your ferret. They can climb on them, in them and use them as ferrety forts. Mine use boxes to play hide and seek, it is really fun to watch. You can combine several boxes together and make several entrance/exit holes for even more fun.
Long tunnels or tubes encourage their tunnelling behaviour. Tumble dryer hose is flexible so numerous courses can be invented.
Dig boxes give your pet something to dig other than your pot plants or their litter tray! You can use a plastic storage box or container for substances such as play sand and potting soil or you could use large cardboard boxes for things such as plastic or paper balls.
Whatever games you decide to try with your little friends, have fun!
For more games that you can try visit http://www.faqs.org/faqs/pets/ferret-faq/part3/section-7.html or http://www.all-about-ferrets.com/ferret-games.html The latter is very amusing, I will let you read it for yourselves though!